Poured from a rare magnum, this is the first time I have tasted Sylvain Cathiard’s 2001 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Reignots in bottle. Here, it seems very closed on the nose and perhaps a little smudged relative to the Les Malconsorts ’02. Give it time though, because a subtle marine-influence begins to emerge as seaweed and mudflats influence the broody black and red fruit. The palate is sweet and sorbet-fresh on the entry, and there is patently good structure here. It does not quite have the poise of Sylvain’s other crus, although there is fine tension on the orange-peel-tinged finish that lingers nicely in the mouth. Certainly on the basis of this magnum, I would be inclined to leave this suave number for another three or four years. Drink 2016-2026. Tasted June 2014. - NEAL MARTIN

From magnum, the 2001 Vosne-Romanée Les Reignots 1er Cru has a lovely marine-influenced nose, hints of Japanese nori and oyster shell infusing the brambly black fruit. This is still showing decent vigor after two decades. The palate is fresh and quite sweet, nicely poised, with a saline finish that is just beginning to thin slightly. This is a fine showing, but I would be inclined to drink it sooner rather than later. -- Neal Martin