Non-grafted chardonnay, this is a very compelling Champagne that has spent some 13 years resting before disgorgement in August 2015. The result is a complex array of dried lemon and biscuity notes with cocoa butter and toasty, bready complexity. The palate has smoothly rendered texture and long lemon citrus flavor with warm nutty complexity building into the finish. Superb. Drink now. - Nick Stock

Enticing hints of honeycomb and candied kumquat on the nose continue on the finely detailed palate of this bright and elegant Champagne, enriching flavors of dried apricot, oyster shell and salted almond. Fresh and lightly zesty on the smoke-laced finish. Disgorged October 2016. Drink now through 2027. — A.N.

From ungrafted Chardonnay vines on sandy soils, the 2002 La Vigne d'Antan Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs offers a rich and clear Chardonnay bouquet with ripe melon fruit and some lemon aromas but also, great purity that comes through even more prominent on the palate. Round and pure, with great finesse and minerality, this is a tension-filled Champagne with great expression and persistent length. - Stephan Reinhardt