Among the few slightly older wines from Weinbach that I tasted recently the 2002 Pinot Gris Altenbourg Selection de Grains Nobles was especially notable. Black tea citrus zest musk white truffle and honey aromas lead intoxicatingly to a plate the combine delicacy with density and richness Like mandarins marinated in honey tea and grapefruit juice on the palate on which 166 grams of residual sugar are tossed off and practically forgotten. This finishes with unquenchable refreshment rare for an S.G.N. and the sort of complexity and clarity that accrue to the best wines of this under-rated vintage. The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France's (hardly just Alsace's) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005 all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general "more focused and clear" (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component and the 2004s richer. I suppose it goes without saying but one has to carefully scrutinize each Weinbach label so numerous are the cuvees. And as wonderful as is the distinctiveness exhibited by the vast majority of wines here even a geek like yours truly could be forgiven for asking whether somewhat fewer different bottlings might benefit consumers as well as journalists!

The scent of chanterelles sautéing in butter leads into a racy dessert white sporting orange marmalade dried pear and quince notes that just won't quit. Great balance and expressive with a mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2025. 128 cases made. (BS)