If you prize subtlety in pinot noir, you'll want this in your cellar. Selleck is one of the first vineyards Josh Jensen planted on Mt. Harlan in 1975; this plot sits at about 1,200 feet on a steep, very stony, south-facing slope. In 2003, it gave a wine that's herbal at first, but the vegetal tones quickly evaporate, leaving a delicate raspberry flavor. The evolution slows, taking hours to show off layers of minerals, a marine element, a dark, smoky length. It's more about savory earth tones than direct fruitiness, and has the inner strength to live and evolve for ten years or more.

You’ll fall in love with this Pinot right away for its softly luscious flavors and balanced harmony. The cherries and raspberries taste like they came from gorgeously ripe fruit, baked into a delicious pie. Yet somehow the wine stays dry and elegant, due in part to its acidity. Tastes completely young and fresh now, and should develop bottle complexity through 2012.

A high-toned and slightly vegetal nose that reflects floral and intense red berry fruit aromas leads to rich, full and intense middle weight flavors that offer solid depth and intensity, all wrapped in a slightly chewy but long finish. This will clearly be capable of aging and the only nit at present is a touch of backend warmth. Drink: 2010+