I’ve rated the 2003 Hermitage perfect on numerous occasions, and while sound bottles are still as good as it gets, I’ve also had some tired bottles here in the States, so provenance is critical with this vintage. Still youthfully colored yet just starting to show some maturity in its aromatics of blackberries, dark currants, licorice, spice box, and leather, this fabulously textured, opulent 2003 hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a wealth of sweet tannins, and a monster of a finish. Clearing 15% alcohol (and I think the pH is probably around 4), it should be a required tasting for all those touting the low alcohol nonsense. This singular beauty can be drunk today with incredible pleasure or cellared for another two decades, if you’re so inclined.

The 2003 Hermitage is as profound as they come. Inky in color, with incredible kirsch, blackberry liqueur, flowers, licorice and hints of underlying meatiness, it hits the palate with a full-bodied, massively concentrated profile that has nothing out of place, seamless integration of its fruit, alcohol and tannin, and an overriding elegant, perfectly balanced feel. Drink it anytime over the coming three decades. - Jeb Dunnuck

This shows the extreme plum, blackberry and raspberry confiture notes of this very hot year, stuffed with extra blood orange, singed clove, saddle leather and freshly plowed humus. The tannins offer a lightly firm cedar edge, but are well-melded into the core. Will likely always be controversial because of the exotic profile, but this is a wine that completely captures the essence of the vintage without sacrificing a sense of terroir. And isn't that what we look for?—Non-blind Chave vertical (June 2012). Drink now through 2030. 750 cases made. –JM

Still incredibly youthful, the wine is deep, dark, rich, fat, full-bodied, lush and intense. The mouthcoating levels of extract and tsunami of black and dark red fruits, licorice, smoke, and pepper hit your palate and keeps on going for 60 seconds or more. Drink from 2025-2050