For those who do not mind the rather atypical profile of the vintage, the 2003 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru from Dugat-Py will be very appealing indeed, and it avoids any suggestion of over-ripeness. A bouquet of ripe red and black fruit and fruit preserve is complemented by plenty of savory complexity: rich earth, pencil lead and even some incipient forest floor. On the palate, the wine is juicy, supple, concentrated—and retains freshness. In fact, I could see the vintage influence being harder and harder to identify as time passes. - William Kelley