One of the first, if not the first, of the proprietarily named Napa Bordeaux blends, Phelps Insignia has been one of California's greatest Cabs for decades. This is their 30th anniversary bottling, and it's worthy of the tradition. Ultrarich and smooth, with a mouthfeel that's pure velvet, it's fairly thick in tannins now, suggesting cellaring. But it's huge in blackberry, dark unsweetened chocolate and spicy plum fruit, and will easily hold for a very long time. Best now, if carefully decanted, and through 2020.

The 2003 has performed well in recent tasting, showing a dense purple color along with notes of creosote, lavender, flowers, creme de cassis, espresso roast, white chocolate and a hint of oak. Still in a young adolescent stage, it should drink nicely for another 15-20 years. There are 12,000 cases of the 2003 Insignia, a blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, and the rest equal parts Malbec and Merlot (87% of the fruit from estate vineyards). The alcohol level reached 14.4%. I was pleased to see how well this vintage was performing as it has been somewhat forgotten following the compelling years of 2001 and 2002. The spring was cool and the summer was dry and warm until some heat spikes (over 100 degrees Fahrenheit) occurred for four consecutive days in July. Both August and September were warmer and drier than normal with only a few insignificant rain events in September. Most of the Cabernet Sauvignon harvest lasted into late October.- RP

Not surprisingly, this year's Insignia again takes its accustomed place near the head of its class. It is a very deep and involving wine with a genuinely complex interplay of ripe cherries, sweet smoke, subtle herbs and notes of dusty soil running its length. As always, it displays hallmark polish and exemplary balance, yet it is never wanting for richness or strength. It deserves to be set aside for at least four or five years and has a very good shot at improving for a decade or more.