The estate’s flagship cuvee is the virtually perfect 2003 Run Rig. Made from 8 separate Barossa vineyards (ranging in age from 94 to 158 years), it is primarily Shiraz with 4-5% co-fermented Viognier included in the blend. The wine was aged in French oak of which 60% is new. The sensational, inky/purple-tinged 2003 exhibits a stunningly sweet nose of blackberries, blueberries, litchi nuts, smoked meats, and a hint of apricots. Elegant yet super-powerful, rich, concentrated, and long, it is a tour de force in winemaking as well as a modern classic example of Barossa Shiraz. It should drink well for 20-25 years.

A huge, ripe wine, the 2003 Torbreck Run Rig is a blend of 95% Shiraz (aged for 30 months in 60% new French oak) and 5% Viognier (aged for 6 months in barrel and added to the blend just prior to bottling.) Still purple with only slight lightening at the edges, the wine is bright and perfumed on the nose, with thick spice, chocolate ganache, underbrush, and bramble characteristics giving way to deep blackberry and raspberry styled fruit. Rock star on the palate, with a full bodied, powerful texture that turns more round and soft on the finish, but still showing ripe tannin, fantastic length, and overall solid balance, this beauty is delicious now, and should continue to evolve and age gracefully for another decade or more.

The Viognier component makes a serious statement, adding an unusual apricot quality to the blueberry, plum and spice flavors. Has a chewy texture, but also a sense of refinement and completeness. Offers shades of nutmeg and pepper as the firm finish rolls on impressively. Shiraz and Viognier. Best from 2009 through 2020. –HS

This has an attractive nose (more so than Two Hand’s Zippy’s that it followed) with blackberry, a touch of fresh prune, fig and blueberry jam. Good definition. The palate is dense and spicy: notes of sloe, dark melted chocolate and peppermint leading to a viscous, mouth coating that has good balance and really grips like a vice. Personally, not my style of wine, but I can discern the craftsmanship and the thought that has gone into the wine. Tasted May 2009.