Very deep crimson. Brule mulberry notes on the nose. Warm and sweet but remarkably gentle on the palate. Lively edge of leafy Cabernet notes - another wine saved by is Cabernet Franc content (60 per cent in this case). Chewy, fine and absolutely no shortage of acidity. Jean-Luc Thunevin says he picked this in October, the latest of all in St-Emilion, with a yield of 28 hl/ha (more than in 2002). This wine is 15% alcohol but you would not know it on the palate. No heat on the finish. A very good Valandraud. 18.5/20

A brilliant success in the vintage, the 2003 Château Valandraud from Jean-Luc Thunevin checks in as 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc, and the balance Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. It's still healthy ruby/plum-hued and has a powerful bouquet of ripe black fruits, chalky minerality, chocolate, and graphite, with a kiss of background leafy tobacco and mint. Full-bodied on the palate, it has a layered, opulent mouthfeel, beautifully ripe tannins, and a great finish. This vintage was challenging for the Right Bank, yet this is absolutely singing today. It should easily evolve for another decade. Drink 2025-2035.

This wine, conceived in a period when this property was not as well-known as it is today, is strutting its stuff. Proprietors Jean-Luc Thunevin and Murielle Andraud should be pleased. The color is a healthy dense plum/ruby. Aromas of sweet licorice, black currants and tobacco leaf are followed by a full-bodied, opulent wine without a trace of oxidation or fatigue. This beauty is a true success for a 2003 Right Bank offering. Drink it over the next 10-15 years. - Robert M. Parker, Jr.