The 2004 Bruno Paillard Champagne Nec Plus Ultra is a notable example of a Champagne blend, combining Pinot Noir and Chardonnay sourced from six grand cru villages in the Champagne region of France. This vintage showcases the classic approach of Bruno Paillard, with the still wines matured in barriques for 10 months prior to assemblage, followed by 12 years of aging on lees before disgorgement. The wine was disgorged in September 2017, with minimal dosage.
Decanter awarded this wine a stellar score of 96, highlighting its "intense, incredibly fresh" profile with flavors of "pillowy brioche supporting licks of ripe tangerine and stone fruit." The reviewer praised its structure, noting the "gentle wood structure" and "saline drive" that lead to a "long, mineral finish." They also remarked on its potential, suggesting it could reveal more complexity in the next three to five years.
Wine Spectator also offered high praise, awarding a score of 95. The review described the wine as "rich" and "vibrant," with a "well-spiced range" of flavors including "pineapple pâte de fruit, toasted brioche, lemon thyme, crystallized honey, and grated ginger." The wine's "racy, seamlessly integrated acidity" and "satiny mousse" were also noted, contributing to its "long and mouthwatering" finish.
Similarly, Wine Enthusiast's assessment, also a 95, described the Champagne as "poised between maturity and fruitiness," with a combination of "richness and texture." The reviewer highlighted its dry character, emphasizing the presence of "ripe white fruit and toast."
In summary, the 2004 Bruno Paillard Champagne Nec Plus Ultra is a well-crafted and highly regarded Champagne, noted for its balance of rich flavors, acidity, and aging potential.