The color was very pale straw with green highlights yet there was the barest trace of oxidation on the nose. To be fair, it was extremely subtle, indeed two tasters didn't notice it at first. Yet with air, it became worse and in the end, it was clear that there was a problem. I include the original tasting note here for ease of reference: A reserved yet elegant nose of white flower, green apple, pear and natural spice and wet stone notes that introduce detailed, fresh and wonderfully intense flavors that are exceptionally clean and bright, culminating in a bone dry finish replete with superb minerality. This is not as dense as the '05 but the purity here is really something to see and as noted last year, it's sufficiently structured that it will need the better part of a decade to reach its apogee. Note that there was a trace of reduction on the nose and this would benefit from 30 minutes in a decanter should you elect to try one.

I had not tasted the 2004 Martray Corton-Charlemagne since a visit to the estate back in 2006, and was very pleased to cross paths with it just this past October here in New York. The wine has evolved beautifully, and is well on its way to becoming a classic vintage of this great wine. The deep and complex nose offers up a lovely array of “cooler fruit tones” redolent of lemon, grapefruit, a touch of anise, powdered stone, spring flowers and a gentle touch of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is fullish, tight and crisp, with a fine core of fruit, lovely focus and structure, impeccable balance and most impressive length and grip on the racy and beautifully transparent finish. Served immediately after the 2006, the 2004 was noticeably longer and racier than the more opulent 2006. A lovely vintage from Bonneau du Martray, which should age beautifully, if the corks will let it. (Drink between 2012-2030)

A focused beam this white wraps its lime mineral apple and vanilla notes around a core of bracing acidity. Has intensity and balance yet this is firm and crisp on the finish for now with real stony length. Best from 2010 through 2030. 400 cases imported.