The 2004 Recioto della Valpolicella Classico (375-milliliter) opens to slightly musky aromas of moist earth and button mushroom with dried cherry and blackberry preserves at the back. This is a long and silky expression. Winemaking reflects the same process used to make Amarone, only the fermentation is blocked to preserve some of that bitter-sweetness. The name Recioto comes from the local dialect word for "ears" (reccie) because the wine is made with the shoulders of the grape clusters that tend to ripen first and have more residual sugar as a result. The finish imparts tarry licorice, dried fruit and bitter chocolate. The drinking window here is wide open for sure. - Monica Larner