Haut-Brion’s grand vin is the embodiment of five centuries of tradition and plays a pivotal role in the worldwide history of wine. It is the oldest of the Bordeaux classed growths, the inventor of a new style of wine fashioned in the seventeenth century, and considered the world’s first luxury brand.

Typically more Merlot dominant than other Left Bank wines, the terroir of Haut-Brion is expressed through its empyreumatic bouquet (Havana cigars, chocolate, roasting, cedar wood, and so on). The attack is restrained, with precise yet exceedingly soft tannins. But the power of this wine is revealed in the surprising long mid-palate and even longer finish.

Château Haut-Brion 2004 is the grand vin rouge from this First Growth in Pessac-Léognan, a vintage that many tasters frame as classic rather than blockbuster. The blend is explicitly Merlot-led—Decanter notes “Merlot dominates the blend (61% of the total)”—with Cabernet Sauvignon (20%) and Cabernet Franc (19%). Alcohol is 13%, and the wine was “aged in 76% new casks (bottled in June 2006),” according to Decanter.

At its best, the 2004 shows the estate’s trademark mix of smoke, mineral-inflected fruit, and polished structure. Wine Spectator’s James Suckling delivered an excellent 95-point review, calling out “wonderful aromas of dried flowers, currant berries and mineral,” and describing a palate that is “full-bodied, yet reserved and refined… seamless and beautiful,” with “great length,” adding it was “even better than from barrel.” Wine Enthusiast (96 points) was even more emphatic about the architecture, calling it “the one with the structure… the brooding character,” highlighting “hugely firm structure” under “initial supple fruit,” and an “enticing surprise” of acidity lifting the finish. Wine & Spirits also rated it an excellent 96, finding “harmony in the glass,” while noting it can begin “subtle, stony and mute,” unfurling over days into “sleek fruit” and “mysterious power,” with a long horizon.

More recent bottles can still show youthful definition. Vinous (94 points) calls it “quintessential Haut-Brion,” with “very well-defined blackberry, cedar, cigar humidor,” and a finish marked by an unexpected “eucalyptus aspect,” concluding it remains “still very enjoyable.” Neal Martin, in Wine Advocate (93 points), likewise finds it “very harmonious, almost caressing” from Merlot’s “velvety texture,” turning more structured and “linear and correct” late, deeming it “an excellent wine for the vintage.” Decanter (93 points) suggests it’s “drinking well now,” with balance the key virtue.