Yes, there is power to this wine. But more than that, it exudes authority; a dense and solid wine with an impressive presence and texture. It has a velvet mouthfeel: the tannins are dusty and mineral, alongside fruit flavors of ripe black plums and dark figs, leavened with fresh acidity. The potential, of course, is there: 20 years if you can wait.

The 2004 Lafite-Rothschild appears to be another late-bloomer in the sense that this 12-year-old bottle is the best I have tasted, implying an upward swing in quality. It has a wondrous bouquet, very sensual and pure with blackberry, graphite and cedar - all the hallmarks of Pauillac, delivered with great panache. It is more opulent than I recall. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannins, pitch-perfect acidity and a beautiful structure. There is a regal sense to this Lafite, understated compared to the other First Growths and yet the persistence on the finish deserves a round of applause, especially in the context of the vintage. This is superb and could possibly turn out to be the pick of the Firsts. Tasted September 2016. - Neal Martin

The most aristocratic of the Pauillac premier crus in this vintage, Lafite captures the pure black-currant flavor of fine cabernet sauvignon. Though oak blocks the aroma for now, a river of fruit runs through the taste into a long, expansive finish. The wine is layered and palate coating, its luscious fruit tamed by firm, mineral tannin. Elegant.

Deep garnet. Marked and attractive herbaceous freshness on the nose. Even a touch of capsicum. Very little tertiary character showing. Similar on the palate, really quite cedary and herbaceous – not unripe but quite the opposite of super-ripe. But all this adds up to great freshness, tannins that are fine and dry, and a long, dry yet rather gentle persistence. 18/20 (JH)

Medium-bodied, and on the green shaded side of the style range with its focus on mint, cedar, tobacco and herbs accompanying its bright, red berry tones. A bit short and drying in the finish in the finish, fans of older classic Bordeaux will probably like this more than I did. Drink from 2025-2040.

This is very refined on the nose with blackberry, wild strawberry and a touch of graphite and road tar, with cedar notes becoming ever more prominent with aeration. Very good definition. The palate has definitely come alive since its showing at primeur. Medium-bodied with very pure black fruits, superb minerality and very fine tannins. It is not quite as complex as one might expect a Lafite, but it does exude minerality and verve. Pure and sleek on the finish with wonderful poise. Excellent. Drink 2012-2030.