only perfect wine of the vintage, which Thomas Brown calls the “Schrader Schrader,” is the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Schrader Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard, a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from clones 4, 6 and 337. This was aged in 90% Darnajou and 10% Taransaud barrels. It had the second highest alcohol in the vintage at 14.6%. In possession of everything anyone could want in a wine, this profound effort offers up a bouquet of lavender, cedarwood, creme de cassis, blackberry, subtle smoke and incense. It is broad, full-bodied and opulent with ethereal complexity, remarkable concentration and that indescribable gravitas and nobility that world-class prodigious wines possess. It is the most youthful of this quartet and probably won’t be at its best for another 3-4 years, but it should drink well for at least two decades thereafter. What Thomas Brown and the Schraders believe is their best wine goes into the cuvee called Old Sparky.- RP

Seductive aromas of crushed berries, wet earth, leaves, mushrooms and violets. Wow. Full body, ultra-fine tannins and a super depth of fruit and intensity. Shows power with finesse. This needs three to four years before it will show its true greatness.

This remains a stunningly complex and beautifully crafted wine, capturing optimal ripeness and exhibiting layers of blackberry, raspberry, plum and boysenberry. Juicy, fleshy and structured, with appealing fresh earth scents.--2004 California Cabernet blind retrospective (August 2014). Drink now through 2030. 250 cases made. — JL