89+ The terroir-driven, muscular, dark, brooding 2004 Cote Rotie La Landonne reveals plenty of meat, tannin, smoke, and tart acids, a dark ruby/purple-tinged color, and a firm, structured mouthfeel. Structuralists will probably rate it considerably higher, but I remain concerned about the acids and tannin dominating the fruit as it evolves. It should last for 10-12 years. - Robert M. Parker, Jr.