Clos du Val has gone as far as they intend to in order to make a ripe opulent Cab in the modern Napa cult style. But they remain faithful to their Bordeaux-inspired house style which is leaner and more tannic than most. The result is a natural cellar candidate with an official alcohol of only 13.5%. Rich in blackberries and black currants this wine should easily develop over the next 10-15 years. S.H.

The vibrant color and complex flavor depth make an immediate impression but it takes two days of air for the elegance and detail of the wine to completely show. Until then it seems a little self-consciously important posturing with lots of face paint from new oak and spicy curves right under your nose. The oak integrates with air and the freshness of the wine wins out over any affectations it displays for immediate drinking. This is in fact built for the long haul.