Flowery notes of green pear and kiwi are pinned down by a hauntingly fragrant slatiness, with a backbone of acidity that gives this a ballerina-like poise. It's long, delicate and fine, continuing to build in aroma and complexity for many hours after being opened.

The 2005 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spatlese smells of apple blossom and ripe honeydew melon, comes to the palate with juicy apple, melon, and subtle honey and herb inflections, and launches into an expansive, rich, quite sweet, yet elegant finish with melon, apple, and peach augmented by sweet herbs, pungent brown spices, and stone-kissing slate. Strikingly glossy – almost buttery – in texture, this Spatlese nevertheless retains invigorating sap and refreshment value. Here is one of this year’s Juffer wines from newly-acquired parcels on the border with the Juffer-Sonnenuhr. “This is my darling this year,” remarks Wilhelm Haag. - David Schildknecht