The 2005 Langhe Nebbiolo Perbacco reveals expressive aromatics and a lovely core of perfumed ripe fruit on a medium-bodied frame. The 2005 is made in the accessible style that is typical of the vintage, and I would choose to drink this wine before the 2004. It is an exceptional wine at this level. Proprietor Luca Currado doesn’t like the idea of a Barolo normale because he thinks it debases that wine, so he came up with Perbacco, which is made from the estate’s second selection of fruit from its multiple holdings across the region. The wine is given 23 months of oak aging prior to being bottled and released with just a few months of bottle age. It has all the hallmarks of a Barolo, but in miniature. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012.- AG

Dark ruby in color, with aromas of raspberry tart and dried flowers. Full-bodied, with silky tannins. Chewy and fruity on the finish. This is as good quality as some outstanding Barolos. Best after 2009. 1,665 cases made. — JS