The 2005 Esprit de Beaucastel is in a beautiful place, wafting from the glass with a wild and stunningly complex bouquet of grilled meat, plummy fruit, Provence herbs, rich soil and an exotic top note of Egyptian musk. On the palate, it's full-bodied, layered and rich, with juicy acids, fine-grained but chalky tannins, excellent energy and immense savory complexity. Evoking a youthful version of Beaucastel's fabulous 1981 vintage, this superb wine still has more than a decade of life ahead of it. - William Kelley

The 2005 Esprit de Beaucastel is earthy in the glass, showing its maturity through a blend of ashen stones, dried flowers, incense and cedar. It’s rich in feel with velvety textures and masses of ripe dark red fruits, while a core of brisk acidity works to maintain balance. Slightly tart flavors reveal a mineral component as hints of sour citrus and tart cranberry fade through the medium-length finale. Jason Haas explained that some 2005s can show a bit of Brett, which indeed comes through in this wine's bouquet but adds more character than distraction. This was an abundant vintage with a late harvest. -- Eric Guido