The 2005 Esprit de Beaucastel is in a beautiful place, wafting from the glass with a wild and stunningly complex bouquet of grilled meat, plummy fruit, Provence herbs, rich soil and an exotic top note of Egyptian musk. On the palate, it's full-bodied, layered and rich, with juicy acids, fine-grained but chalky tannins, excellent energy and immense savory complexity. Evoking a youthful version of Beaucastel's fabulous 1981 vintage, this superb wine still has more than a decade of life ahead of it. - William Kelley