A wine that famously takes its time to come around, and the colour remains robust ruby at 17 years old, with pale sunrise red around the edges. Still plenty of ripe and young berry fruit on the nose, followed by melted tannins and gently-smoked caramel - showcasing the generosity of Pomerol in a way that Trotanoy sometimes hides when young. Cigar box, Christmas spice, liqourice, edges of bitter black chocolate, tapenade, mocha and menthol, still building in power over the palate, on the precipe of tertiary truffle and rose petal flavours. Just so engaging. Last tasted a few years ago, and it has noticeably stepped into its tasting window. A wine that makes you smile, and immediately reach for another glass - and a friend to share it with. Owned by the Moueix family, and a moment at the property when they had introduced smaller tanks in the cellar, and more precision in harvesting with small baskets. 50% new oak.

Readers looking for a quintessential example of this château should try the 2005 Château Trotanoy, a big beast of a wine that has the classic Trotanoy focused, structured, powerful style. Offering smoked red and black fruits, graphite, iron, and a leather-driven perfume as well as a focused, inward, tannic style on the palate, I love its mid-palate depth, it has tons of concentration and structure as well as outstanding length, and it will be incredibly long-lived. I don't see this matching the grandeur of the 1998, but it's nevertheless a sensational Pomerol.

The Château Trotanoy 2005 has a tough job following the La Conseillante ’05 – this is far more broody and taciturn (as usual) with blackberry, black truffle, a touch of boot polish and lavender. But those aromas are being kept on a very tight leash. The palate is medium-bodied and deceptively complex with beautifully judged acidity, hints of cured meat infusing the red berry fruit, fanning out gently with hints of Provençal herbs and dried blood. This is an understated Trotanoy, perhaps one that might be shouted over by the more “vociferous” Right Bank wine – but it is one of the most nuanced Pomerol ‘05s.

Tasted at the Trotanoy vertical in Hong Kong, the 2005 Trotanoy has been an awesome Pomerol since birth. Now at 12 years old, the "giant" is beginning to flex its muscles. It has more red than black fruit, more floral than the likes of the 2000 or 2001, beautifully defined with raspberry coulis, wild strawberry, clove and bay leaf, iris and violet unfurling with continued aeration. The palate has a pleasurable grainy texture and fine salinity. The acidity is extremely well judged, and there is the structure and backbone, perhaps even the stubbornness that defines this great vineyard. There is enormous potential here. Tasted November 2016. - Neal Martin

Shows complex subtle aromas of fruit and black olive with hints of milk chocolate and ripe fruit. Develops wonderfully in the glass. Full-bodied with silky tannins and beautiful sweet berry and light vanilla fruit character. Refined and balanced. This is very very impressive. Best after 2013