The Burgundian styled cuvees of Chardonnay which are all barrel-fermented with about 40% or so of new oak and virtually all made from old Wente clones of Chardonnay include the Batard-Montrachet-like 2005 Chardonnay Ampitheater Block. A big honeysuckle nose intermixed with poached pears lemon butter and some subtle wood is followed by a wine of terrific intensity beautiful texture full body and terrific underlying acidity and minerality. This is a beauty to drink over the next 4-6 years.

This bottling is the favored of the two Varner Spring Ridge Vineyard releases by dint of its deeper fruit and increased sense of essential substance. It is moderately full-bodied and firm without being stiff, and it comes with lots of rich oak as adjuncts to its ample, appley fruit. It is by all counts a solid and nicely stuffed wine, and it has the pieces in place to improve for several years.