In the nose, the 2006 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Im Weingebirge tosses a fascinating salad of lentils, bitter greens, almond oil, peach kernel, and charred croutons. But this is not the light, spring-like salad of a Nikolaihof Hefeabzug or Federspiel. The polished palate here exhibits a low-toned, roasted richness of lentil, beets, and coffee, an alkaline, wet stone foundation, and a seemingly iron-rich, spinach-like greenness. All the while, this never forgets its duty to pour forth satisfying ripeness of luscious fruit, even if it’s not a fruit that anyone has tasted elsewhere or can name. “You can tell from this wine that the vine had it well all year” (meaning stress-free), says Christine Saahs, adding that some of the distinctive magic here is thanks to a visit from boytrytis. Yet, while it is the highest-alcohol wine here this vintage, it weighs in at only 13.5%. - David Schildknecht