91+ From 42 year old vines, the Carillon 2007 Bienvenues-Montrachet received 50% new wood since the only alternatives were 100% or 0%. This is amazingly suffused with salt, chalk, and generally oceanic matter, beneath a...
91+ From 42 year old vines, the Carillon 2007 Bienvenues-Montrachet received 50% new wood since the only alternatives were 100% or 0%. This is amazingly suffused with salt, chalk, and generally oceanic matter, beneath a bed of citrus oils. But if – as Carillon correctly notes – this has more concentration, more minerality, and more amplitude than his premier crus, they seems to have come at the price of a bit of clarity, refreshment, or complexity. I would certainly like to re-visit this undeniably penetrating and formidable wine, and perhaps the moment at which I tasted it was inopportune. It’s also Carillon’s view that this cru is inherently slow to open, but while that has sometimes struck me as the case (vis a vis Batard, in particular), I'm not convinced I detect a broader pattern, and – if anything – Bienvenues has repeatedly proven memorably expressive in this vintage. Furthermore, Carillon’s 2008 Bienvenues displayed generosity and charm, even coming right out of malo. - David Schildknecht