As with all of Prüm's 2007s, this stylish, delicate Kabinett is dominated by notes of fermentation on the nose, yet the fruit emerges on the palate with silky, subtle poise. It's strongly marked by the blue-slate character of the site, and holds superb balance and focus through the long finish.

Floral and smoke aromas give way to peach apple and lime flavors in this delicate silky Riesling. All is well-integrated with the bright structure and lingers lazily on the long mineral-tinged finish. Drink now through 2024. -BS

The Prum 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett displays the classic fresh apple apple blossom and vanilla of the site. Crushed stone and the bitter side of the vanilla bean help temper the sweetness here. This shows alluring creaminess along with refined delicacy finishing long on fresh apple sweet floral perfume and wet stone along with hints of anise and vanilla. "This is Kabinett the way we imagine it" remarks Katharina Prum although hardly surprisingly the estate's quantities at this Pradikat level are smaller than are those at Spatlese grade. And I would add that it is unlikely very many vintages of this iconic Mosel will age more expressively or successfully than the one under consideration here. -David Schildknecht

Like many of the J.J. Prüm wines, this one starts off funky smelling, with hints of sweaty socks. But those aromas aren’t enough to conceal the underlying notes of apple, citrus and vanilla; decant the wine if you intend to drink it during the next five years or so. It’s plump and custardy in texture, with a long, pineappley finish.