The Shiels’ 686 cases of 2008 DuBrul Vineyard Carriage House – its Cabernet Sauvignon blended with 23% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc, and raised in two-thirds new barrels – represents the latest installment of a wine that...
The Shiels’ 686 cases of 2008 DuBrul Vineyard Carriage House – its Cabernet Sauvignon blended with 23% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc, and raised in two-thirds new barrels – represents the latest installment of a wine that is their “second” red from Bordelais varieties but not at all a “second wine” in the classic sense, since it originates in separate rows with slightly different underlying soils from those farmed and sourced for the Cote Bonneville flagship. As usual for this bottling, there is a lovely alliance of polished, even silken texture with Washington fruit-typical vim and vigor. Despite the dominance of Cabernet Sauvignon, there is a significant, not to mention winsome, profusion of bittersweet floral perfume. Cassis, elderberry, and dark cherry are mingled with nut oils and tinged with iodine, smoky Latakia tobacco, and dark chocolate. Glycerol-rich yet with a buoyancy that belies its high-14% alcohol, this finishes with lusciously lingering fruit in a vibrant exchange with floral, herbal and mineral elements. Expect it to be worth following for at least a decade. - David Schildknecht