(WA93-94 points) From an especially rocky portion of Mazoyeres (and one, incidentally, separated from the majority Mazoyeres portion of his Charmes bottling by the vines of Bachelet and Taupenot), Bernard Dugat’s 2008...
(WA93-94 points) From an especially rocky portion of Mazoyeres (and one, incidentally, separated from the majority Mazoyeres portion of his Charmes bottling by the vines of Bachelet and Taupenot), Bernard Dugat’s 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Mazoyeres-Chambertin displays licorice and diverse herbal concentrates as well as dark berries, with an underlying sense of chalk and stone that seems to reflect its soil. Gripping, but corseted in tannins, it comes off as a bit austere, and certainly more formidable than loveable. But the overall effect here is quite compelling. I would set bottles aside for a half dozen years before revisiting and then count on following for another 15 years. Interestingly, the share of stems here was “only” around three-quarters, i.e. less than with the majority of Dugat-Py 2008s. - David Schildknecht