The benefit of the older vines is apparent as this is notably more complex than either the Forêts or the Montmains with its broad-ranging nose of subtle wood, green fruit, citrus, tidal pool, wet stone and saline notes where the salt and mineral elements continue onto the detailed, intense and exceptionally pure flavors that ooze Chablis character on the palate staining and impeccably balanced finish. One to strongly consider.

Raveneau’s 2008 Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux opens in the glass with delicate notes of apple, white peach, spring blossom and pastry cream, its aromatic profile making me wonder if it was this cuvée’s turn to season the Domaine’s new oak barrels this year. On the palate, the wine is medium-full, with good cut and moderate concentration, simultaneously a touch reserved and quite structurally open-knit. - William Kelley