Palate-staining plum and cherry dusted with cardamom and cinnamon in Chauvenet's 2008 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Charmottes marry the cut and vivacity typical of its vintage with considerable low-toned richness and a satiny texture. This finishes with invigorating and lip-smacking spice and salinity as well as exuberant primary fruit juiciness. I expect it will merit at least a decade of attention. --- David Schildknecht