The Prums' 2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese is less obviously rich but even more remarkably delicate than the corresponding Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. Here too we have creaminess of texture allied to refreshing brightness. Iris buddleia apple and pineapple are tinged with enticing salinity and one is drawn back infectiously for the next sip as this wine's intrigue and understated charm work their magic. Over the next three decades I predict that this will remain the most intimate and delicate of the vintage's Prum Spatlesen. -DS

Serious and earthy like walking into a wall of minerality. The fruit takes a back seat here but is lusciously peachy and fresh while the long finish is sparked by hints of exotic spices. Give this two to three years to show its best. W.E.