The 2009 Monthelie Les Duresses is as expected juicier and riper than the cooler 2008 yet every bit as compelling. Radiant fruit caresses the palate through to the finish. This is a great introduction to the wines of Dominique Lafon. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Dominique Lafon's 2009s are just as stunning from bottle as they were when I tasted them in cask earlier this year. Lafon is one of the most thoughtful growers in Burgundy. Along with a group of his colleagues Lafon is among the producers who has basically re-examined every aspect of the way he makes wine in response to the problem of premature oxidation. Today-s wines spend more time on their lees but that is just one of many changes that have taken place here over the last few years. Except as noted I tasted the 2009s from bottle. --- Antonio Galloni