Dry, austere and yet delicious, this magnum has preserved the wine's stony, smoky aromas and restrained peach-skin and apricot flavors. Beginning to show more roundness in the texture with age. There is still no hurry to drink it. Best from 2028.

Fresh and aromatic, this complex and layered white offers a creamy palate of yellow plum, almond skin, lemon preserves, beeswax and pine forest, underscored by a minerally streak of salinity and smoke. The lovely, lacy finish resonates on the palate. Drink now through 2029. 750 cases made. –AN

Carrying 14% alcohol with negligible residual sugar, Trimbach’s 2009 Riesling Clos Ste-Hune leads with high-toned pear, kirsch, and almost bitingly piquant holly berry distillates. Huckleberry, holly, and fruit pit bitterness are well woven into a tight-grained, seamless fabric of fresh white peach, with further chalky and alkaline accents. The finish is a veritable rolling block of mineral and fruit distillate, boasting energy and grip, if also a bit of heat. I suspect that the Frederic Emile will retain an edge in elegance over this, which I would drink on the early side for a Ste-Hune, say over the next 10-12 years. - David Schildknecht