A discreet touch of wood sets off fresh cool and reserved aromas that are elegant airy and citrusy before merging into rich intense pure and admirably precise medium-bodied flavors that possess really lovely balance and superb length. While there is also an almost invisible hint of wood on the backend it should be absorbed quickly and overall this is a spherical wine of perfect proportions and class.

The 2009 Chablis Les Preuses is one of the most complete wines in this lineup. It possesses striking delineation of aromas and flavors, with nuance after nuance that emerge in the glass. It is another of the weightless wines here in that it is full of flavor but never heavy. Intense notes of minerality and smokiness grace the textured, sublime finish. This is a fabulous effort from Fevre and Didier Seguier. The Preuses is made from two parcels; the first an east-facing steep slope, the second a flatter parcel richer in clay with a southwest exposure. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. - Antonio Galloni