The 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella opens to a dark, midnight color and spicy aromas of old spice, Middle Eastern bazaar, waxed furniture, honey-roasted ham, cured meat, caramelized sugar and dark road pavement. The wine shows impossible extraction and concentration that will make it difficult to match foods that don’t involve a hearty piece of red meat. Despite the bulk, there is beauty here and the wine will surely appeal to die-hard Amarone enthusiasts. Drink 2015-2025. - ML

Expressive, with date, dried fig, floral, herb, mocha and melted licorice notes backed by mouthwatering acidity and suave tannins. Refined and silky in texture, with a long, spiced finish. Drink now through 2029. 1,800 cases imported. –AN