Billaud-Simon’s 2011 Chablis Preuses – from vines planted in 1952 – displays earthy and intriguing suggestions of urchin roe, musky narcissus, and fresh lemon. Richly-textured yet persistently bright, it draws on the sort of sweetly-saline crustacean character so memorably frequent from this cru to generate a finish of mouthwatering temptation and profound depth. This is a fine example of what some will consider the peculiarities – or perhaps even the slightly off-putting exoticism – of Preuses. The rest of us would do well to employ some of this secret weapon at table over the coming decade. - David Schildknecht