Initially there is a trace of reduction present though aggressive swirling is able to liberate a strikingly elegant, airy and cool nose of wisps of white flowers, lemon rind, mineral reduction, green apple and spiced pear. The sleek, pure and stony medium weight flavors exude a palpable underlying tension before culminating in a vibrant, driving, intense and impeccably well-balanced finish that goes on and on. This is textbook Perrières where the very dry and chiseled flavors seem to be formed from essence of stone. As is often the case, this is indisputably very classy juice.

The 2011 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru has Dominique Lafon at his best. Glistening in the glass, it has a telltale nose flecked with white chocolate and almond, not derived from the new oak by the character of Lafon's winemaking style. That comes across on the precise and poised palate, with top notes of almond complementing the core of minerals that speak up towards the finish. This is drinking beautifully now, but it will continue to give pleasure for many years. Tasted blind at Noble Rot restaurant in London. -- Neal Martin

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The 2011 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières from Dominique Lafon has a very composed bouquet, more Perrières in style that Roulot’s at the moment, with limestone and granite aromas filtering through nicely, gaining vigor all the time. The palate is clean and fresh, detailed with fresh lemon peel and touches of white peach in the background. It is beautifully poised and harmonious right to the finish, this is a very assured Perrières. There is huge potential locked into this wine. - Neal Martin