The 2011 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses is a unique vintage in the annals of this prestigious Champagne house. Produced entirely from Pinot Noir, it reflects the distinctive conditions of the year and the winemaking decisions that followed. The wine, which was aged for nine years on the lees and has a dosage of 4.25 grams per liter, is noted for its brisk attack and bright red fruit flavors, as highlighted by Decanter, which awarded it a score of 94.
Decanter's review describes the wine as having "bright red fruit and elderberry with fine petillance," emphasizing its worthy terroir and long finish. The publication also notes the challenges of the vintage, including an oidium attack that severely impacted the Chardonnay crop, resulting in a production of only 12,000 bottles. Despite these challenges, the wine is praised for its quality, although Charles Philipponnat himself is noted as being more excited about the 2012 vintage.
Vinous also gave the wine a high score of 93, commending its "bright and perfumed" nature with "lovely energy driving the citrus, floral and savory notes." Antonio Galloni of Vinous remarks on the unusual composition of this vintage, noting that the Pinot Noir grapes exhibited Chardonnay-like characteristics. He advises against long-term aging but sees potential for medium-term enjoyment.
Wine Spectator, another respected publication, also scored the wine at 93, highlighting its "fine integration of well-cut acidity with delicate flavors of crème de cassis, lemon curd and crushed almond." The publication notes the "lively and lacy" mousse and the minerally chalk and smoke notes on the finish. This review suggests a drinking window through 2026, indicating the wine's current approachability.
John Gilman from View From The Cellar gave the highest score of 97, describing the 2011 vintage as "quite unique" and "stunning." He praises the wine's bouquet of white peach, fresh apricot, chalky minerality, almond, brioche, and orange blossoms. Gilman notes the wine's purity, full-bodied nature, and superb mineral drive, predicting a fascinating evolution over the coming decades.
Overall, the 2011 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses is a notable vintage, distinguished by its 100% Pinot Noir composition and the unique challenges of the year. It has received high praise from multiple reviewers and is recognized for its balance, complexity, and distinctive character.