The overtly floral nose combines discreet oak and natural spice elements with cool red currant, plum and violet scents. There is excellent richness and power to the restrained and cool yet muscular big-bodied flavors that display a very firm minerality on the wonderfully complex finish that is shaped by notably firm but not hard tannins. This is a big and concentrated wine, particularly in the context of the 2011 vintage, and as such it is a wine that is clearly built to age. In a word, marvelous.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. Compared to the other four Malconsorts ‘11s in this peer group, the Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 2011 from Sylvain Cathiard has the most vivacious red fruit on the nose with joyous red cherries, redcurrant and fresh strawberry scents. You might call this a carefree bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a keen line of acidity, but it does not deliver the same structure or complexity on the finish as others. This is still a fine Malconsorts that will benefit from several years in the cellar. - Neal Martin