Vibrant, with terrific, chiseled cut to the range of briar, anise, blackberry compote, bay leaf, iron and sanguine notes, all wrapped with singed alder and juniper accents on the finish. Pure and driven. Best from 2016 through 2030. From France. — J.M.

There was no Les Vieilles Fontaines bottled in 2011, so that fruit went into this bottling, along with several other parcels. At 10 years of age, this 2011 Cornas Vieilles Vignes is drinking well, a lovely, mature, balanced wine. Hints of leather and dried cherries appear on the nose, while the medium-bodied palate is silky and fresh, with a long finish of black olives and cured meat. Drink it over the next several years. - Joe Czerwinski