Here the wood is less subtle as there are vanilla and toast hints in evidence on the otherwise very fresh and cool aromas of white flowers, pear, green apple and wet stone. There is notably good concentration and plenty of palate coating dry extract to the big-bodied flavors that exude a fine minerality on the saline-infused, explosive and seriously persistent finish. This will need up to a decade to reveal its full potential but thanks to all of the extract, be approachable young.

The 2012 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos comes from 2.57 hectares of 40-year-old vines cropped at 36 hectoliters per hectare and it sees 12 months in wooden barrels of which 10% are new. It has a very controlled bouquet that opens in the glass: dried herbs, cold stone, melted wax and wet granite. The palate is well-balanced with good depth, but it is very backward and deserves three or four years in bottle. The slight viscosity on the finish suggests this will be quite a rich Les Clos but it will surely bide its time. Drink 2017-2027. - Neal Martin