Abundant, fully ripe, dark cherry fruit is overlain with a veneer of sweet, distinctly toasty oak in the nose here, and the wine’s ample, wholly expressed flavors leave nothing behind. Richness rather than nuance is this Pinot’s forte, and the wine goes right to the brink, but, in spite of its opulence, its varietal credentials are never in doubt, and it succeeds wonderfully in an extravagant style that few winemakers have mastered half as well as Tom Dehlinger has.

Intense and brimming with rich, juicy tiers of red and dark fruit, supported by firm, gripping tannins. The core of blueberry and wild berry are well-focused. The tannins are a bit rangy now, but the finish is pure. Drink now through 2024. — J.L.