Here too there is a deft but not invisible application of wood framing the fresh, cool and airy aromas of pepper, earth and red currant. There is good volume and very good concentration to the delicious and intense medium-bodied flavors that deliver equally good depth and length on the mildly rustic finish. I should point out that here the supporting structure is somewhat more prominent and thus it would be better to allow this to rest in the cellar for a few years first.

The 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeots has a very pure bouquet with scents of apple and orange blossom that needs more encouragement than the other premier crus. But it is worth the effort. The palate is rounded and generous on the entry with touches of bitter lemon and orange rind. It is sedate and harmonious with an agreeable fatness on the entry, rounding off a satisfying, quite sumptuous Chassagne-Montrachet. - Neal Martin