The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Impassable Mountain Reserve (the name refers to 19th century surveyors who were trying to lay a stagecoach line through these steep slopes) can easily compete with the finest of Napa. Aromas of pen ink, graphite, black plums, cassis and primordial foresty notes are followed by a full-bodied, opulent, multilayered, skyscraper-like, stunning Cabernet Sauvignon. It can be drunk now for its exuberance and sweet tannins, but it promises to evolve for two decades. This beauty is another great effort from a winery that remains under-the-radar for most consumers. - Robert Parker