A far more mannerly take on Merlot than is its conspicuously rustic, reserve partner and insistently focused on slightly juicy red cherry fruit from beginning to end, this is a vital, well-balanced wine of measured richness and quiet strength rather than a big and blustery one that goes for it all. Its very temperate tannins furnish a nice bit of structural grip without being intrusive, and, if an entirely agreeable Merlot in the short term, it promises to grow into better if held.