A classy white, creamy in texture and racy, featuring lemon, apple, hazelnut, nut oil and mineral aromas and flavors. Intense and airy at once, building to a long aftertaste of citrus and mineral. The oak lends the right amount of support and never gets in the way. Best from 2018 through 2028. — B.S.

The 2012 Clavoillon from Domaine Leflaive is a beautiful wine in the making and it is really a pity that there will be so little of it to go around. The very precise and mineral nose jumps from the glass in a mix of apple, white peach, lemon, wonderfully complex, chalky minerality, citrus zest, white flowers and a whisper of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full and pure, with a very lovely core of fruit, excellent soil inflection, crisp acids and laser-like focus on the very long and classy finish. A gorgeous wine in the making.