An exuberantly spicy nose is composed primarily of ripe black pinot fruit and violet aromas. There is a refined mouth feel to the middle weight flavors that are supported by ripe and fine tannins before culminating in a linear and tight but balanced finish that delivers excellent depth and length. This is better than it usually is as there is more underlying material. Note that this lovely effort should be approachable young. 2020+

Taut and austere, with floral and berry flavors sealed up. The tannins are prominent now, but this shows purity, balance and length, finishing with cherry and mineral accents. Gains suppleness with air, so be patient. Best from 2018 through 2032. — B.S.

The 2012 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Chaumes reveals a youthful bouquet of rose petal, raspberry and ripe cherry, framed by nicely integrated new oak. On the palate, the wine is supple, medium-full and creamily textural, with impressive mid-palate depth and structural seriousness for this often rather facile climat. My only reservation is that this is certainly overtly ripe, and some liqueured notes emerge as it sits in the glass; if it's just in an awkward phase, my score will look conservative in a few years. - William Kelley