The 2012 St Veran Grand Bussiere comes from the town of Prissé, an early-maturing site located mid-slope, so Olivier mentioned that here he has to be careful about the date of picking. “You can sometimes find some Muscat flavours,” he said, “though they are not apparent in this vintage.” It has an exquisite bouquet with delicate scents of white peach, apricot blossom and citrus lemon, offering much more mineralité and detail than the regular Saint Véran. The palate is well-balanced with crisp acidity: touches of marmalade and fig jam lending this real exoticism. Long in the mouth, this is one of Olivier’s best wines this year. - Neal Martin