Tasted five years after bottling, this wine still shows a core of dried strawberry and cherry flavor, but it's shaded by umami tones of balsamic, leather and mushroom. It's intoxicatingly rich on the palate but balanced freshly, edged by delicate tea tannins. This complex wine shows its savory side elegantly. It drinks well now but should hold till 2024. ANNA LEE C. IIJIMA

Full-bodied, rich and still somewhat tannic but approachable, the 2013 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Laurence features hints of mocha and leather layered over dark, plummy fruit, meaty, savory notes and a bit of dried herb. It's full-bodied and velvety, with lingering astringency on the finish. While it might smooth out a bit in time, I suspect it will always remain tannic, so pair it with grilled meats that will benefit from such a partner. - Joe Czerwinski

A terrific expression from this domaine. Dark, earthy plums are swathed in mountain herbs and dark, stony minerals. The palate has a supple, suave core of fine tannins that thread flavors long through the finish. Drink or hold.

A terrific wine in the vintage, the 2013 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Laurence is the same blend as the Cuvée Réservée yet spent another year in barrel. It’s a medium to full-bodied, fresh, focused example of this cuvée that has classic garrigue, ground pepper, violets, and assorted darker fruits. It shows the cooler, more austere, focused style of the vintage, has a great texture, and is old-school magic all the way. It’s going to keep for two decades.

Mature, with smoky tobacco, bay leaf, menthol and savory notes emerging from the core of gently steeped black currant and blackberry fruit. Streaks of charcoal and leather line the finish, adding texture and length. Drink now through 2030. 670 cases made.–JM