Wet earth, rain-wet stones, damp moss, wild sage and very ripe pear make for a complex opening. Further sniffs reveal more citrus: both juice and zest of lemon. The palate still holds a lot of leesy yeast flavors but its phenolic richness is tempered by total citrus freshness. This is still tightly wound; leave it so it can come into its own. The warming resonance on the palate suggests it has a long future. Drink from 2019.

The 2014 Loibner Grüner Veltliner Ried Loibenberg Smaragd offers a very clear and elegant bouquet with ripe fruit aromas, but also a nice purity. Round and very elegant on the palate, this is a full-bodied, intense and fruit-driven Veltliner; it has a nicely vibrant acidity in the finish that also reveals a good grip. - Stephan Reinhardt