This is the coolest and freshest of the Grand Cru vineyards. The wine is tight, steely with a nervy core of acidity that gives it a textured, structured character. It is full of energy, crisp, packed with apples and citrus and needing several years aging. Drink from 2020.

Here too the nose is trimmed in just enough wood to notice though it does not interfere with the clear appreciation of the fresh, cool and restrained aromas of green fruit, lemon peel and a plenitude of Chablis character where only a hint of exotic fruit is in evidence. Like the Bougros, this is a big-bodied wine with ample size, weight and mid-palate density as the abundant dry extract imparts a suave and opulent mouth feel before culminating in an impressively rich, muscular and persistent finish.

The 2013 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur has a sultry, quite backward bouquet at the moment: touches of wet earth, citrus peel and granite that all need a little more intensity. The palate is fresh and crisp on the entry, saline in the mouth with a twist of sour lemon, although the mineral finish just lacks a little persistence at the moment. I would give this another couple of years in the cellar as the tension is commendable. - Neal Martin